onsdag 26. juni 2019

Henning Wang går Brunhilde (8c) i Flatanger

Henning Wang har gått enda en hard rute med bestigningen av Brunhilde (grad 8c) i Hanshelleren i Flatanger. Han har også gjort to kjappe bestigninger av grad 8b etter at han flyttet opp til Flatanger etter å ha tilbrakt enda en vinter i Spania hvor han blant annet gikk 8c+. 

Brunhilde har blant annet blitt klatret av Erik Grandelius for tre år siden, men har ikke hatt noen norske bestigninger før nå.

Brunhilde starter litt opp i veggen, men det er en "lav start" som faktisk starter fra bakken hvor Adam Ondra har gått en 9a-start på ruta. 


Her er et bilde fra fjorårets bestigning av Nordic Flower (8c) hvor han forlenget ruta videre fra den vanlige stoppen midt i et overheng. 
Se dette innlegget på Instagram
Nordic Flower 2.5 (8c/+) After sending the Nordic Plumber I decided I wanted to spend a bit more time in Flatanger this season to see if I could also do the Nordic Flower. As the route is in a roof and also fairly long (55 meters). Checking out the moves, finding the beta and making the links tok a few days. Then, ready to start redpoints, I instead decided to spend another few days working an extension. I just could not accept that the route was to end at such a random place in the middle of the roof for no good reason. The original anchor is a bit of an oddity placed in the middle of the roof, 15 meters from the vertical plate everything else ends on. I guess it was originaly intended to continue as it has a third extension through the only bad rock up there with a hard boulder at the end that's yet to be climbed from the Flower (tho climbed by Adam Ondra from the Valkyrie). This extension neither seems logical nor very nice to me. The continuation out the Valkyrie however, a route that basically comes in just at the anchors of the Nordic Flower and continues out the easiest and most obvious line to the formentioned vertical feature, seemed much more like the logical extension. The only issue with Valkyrie is that again, the anchors are a bit too low (most likely to save the rope when lowering), basically just at the end of the roof, missing the moves getting around the lip and into the ledge/cave feature on the vertical just above. Seeing as there were holds I decided to add that part aswell, making the whole thing a 70 meter kneebarskill dependent endurance monster. Then yesterday, it all came togheter from the ground somehow :) The "new" extension adds a 15ish meter 8a to the existing 8c. Seeing as there are decent rests I'm guessing it only adds a /+ to the grade, but I might be wrong. Time will tell I guess. In the first two photo's: the Nordic Flower. In the last two photo's: the extension into the Valkyrie. (The black rope is in the original anchor) The video is the first part of the crux boulder on the second part of the Nordic Flower. The whole boulder (in better quality..) can be seen here: https://gopro.com/v/MBZXood67ZkZ
Et innlegg delt av henning_wang (@henning_wang_)

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