søndag 7. oktober 2018

Martin Mobråten går Nordic Plumber (8c), Henning Wang går Nordic Flower (8b+)

Martin Mobråten har gått fra buldring til 40 meter lange pumpfester med bestigningen av Nordic Plumber (grad 8c) i Hanshelleren i Flatanger. Han har tidligere gått harde ruter opp til grad 9a, men ifølge instagram stories aldri noe så langt.
Mellom sterk vind og harde regnbyger har også Henning Wang gått Nordic flower første taulengde, grad 8b+, ikke lenge etter at han tidligere i høst gikk Nordic Plumber. Men alle som kjenner Henning regner med at han snart topper 8c-delen av Nordic Flower også.

Her er noen instagrambilder fra Henning, som alltid knall bilder, av begge to.

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Made it back to Flatanger for yet another weekend :) The weather got a bit more chilly then we might have prefered with frost during the night and about 6-8 degrees during the day. It turned out to be quite the challenge staying warm on the freezing rock, but once the pain was endured some good links were made. I started out yesterday with a test redpoint on the Nordic Flower, sending part 1 (8b/+), something I hadn't actualy done before(!), getting halfway through the crux on part 2 with a lot of mistakes and bad beta. I then made links and improved my beta on part 2 to the point I now feel confident I can do the full rig. Also struggeling with the temps, Martin devided not to try the Thors Hammer but instead go all in on the Nordic Plumber (8c), sending it in a impressive last go today. All in all a pretty good weekend :) In the first photo: Me on Nordic Flower part 1. In the second photo: Martin on the final rail of the Plumber/Thors a few weeks ago. #madskillzmedia #flatanger #endurance #cold #klatring #escalar #climbing #doyouclimb @climbflatanger #climbing_photos_of_instagram #norge #visitnorway #8c #redpoint #kneebarstars
Et innlegg delt av henning_wang (@henning_wang_)

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Back in 2012 I was there as @ethan_pringle bolted the link from The Nordic Flower into @magmidt yet unclimbed project The Thors Hammer. I watched with interest during Ethans redpoint attempts, and I was up at the anchor taking photo's during the first ascent (photo nr. 2). The line was originaly to be called Nordic Thunder, but based on a funny misunderstanding with some of the locals, ended up as The Nordic Plumber. I didn't really try the route then beyond bouldering a bit at the bottom boulder, and when I returned in 2014 I focused more on Nordic Flower, climbing this to the first chains from the second bolt, but never from the ground(!). I then returned in 2015 to try it, but frustrated with what seemed like constantly wet holds in the begining, and sub optimal beta on this sequence, I left the original start and opted to try it from the always dry Dvergtrollet just to the right instead. After several trips that year, I made the link from Dvergtrollet for a slightly easier version (The Troll Hammer), but it still haunted me that I hadn't done it from the original start. Fast forward to easter this year, I once again find myself in Flatanger, this time with my couisin @eivindumberto trying the Nordic Flower/Plumber start. We didn't have any redpoint attempts on it that trip, or that spring for that matter, but came back a few weekends here and there to learn/relearn the beta. After 4 months away from Flatanger, I came back to try it again 2 days 2 weeks ago, then last weekend, and finally this weekend for proper redpoint attempts. Having sussed out all the beta and recovered some endurance working the links, it all came down to waiting for conditions, and today, on my second time through the first boulder (made it through and fell on the rail in the photo's 2 days ago), I finally managed to battle it out all the way to the chains :) Nordic Plumber 8c, sent and done. Photo 1: Me on the final rail, the redpoint crux, by @firnenburgbrothers back in 2015. Photo 2: Ethan Pringle on the final rail during the actual first ascent back in 2012. #madskillzmedia #klatring #escalar #climbing #climbnorway @climbflatanger #climbing_photos_of_instagram #8c
Et innlegg delt av henning_wang (@henning_wang_)

1 kommentar:

  1. Er vel strengt tatt kun Magnus og Sindre som har gått 9a av nordmenn så langt.
    Jungle Speed, dog i føreren 9a, var feilgradert og ble ikke anerkjent som 9a av verken Magnus, Martin eller Thilo som alle 3 gikk den relativt kjapt.
    Står fortsatt åpent hvem som blir tredje nordmann til 9a, men skal sies at Martin ser sprek ut på Thors Hammer, som i motsetnig til Jungle Speed faktisk er 9a ;)