søndag 24. februar 2019

Thilo Schröter flasher 8B-bulder, Martin Mobråten førstebestiger 8B+ i Hueco Tanks

Se dette innlegget på Instagram

Nagual • V13 • Flash ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ I usually don’t set myself goals other than climbing boulders that are appealing. Setting a grade or result oriented goal is more than often disappointing and not very motivating, for me at least. But for this trip I wanted to challenge myself and see if I could make a proper V13 flash happen, as I really enjoy the challenge of flashing regardless of grade. I’ve flashed one 8B before - Monkey Business in Rocklands three years ago, but that one is pretty low end, and I wanted to prove to myself that I could do it again, and hopefully on a more regular basis. I got heartbreakingly close on Vecchio Leone is Brione two years ago, but since then it’s been dry. Hueco seemed like an “easy” place to flash hard with it’s physically challenging boulders so I was psyched! Initially I had looked out Crown of Aragon and checked it out on a few occasions, but Nagual was definitely a contender as well. I of course wanted to wait for the right moment as it takes some time to get past the jet lag and adapt to the style, not to mention skin and conditions. I waited long, for six weeks, and after two rest days on our last day in the Tanks it was time to give one of them a fucking memorable effort. I decided to put all my eggs in the Nagual-basket. My skin couldn’t have been any better and a nice breeze was going through the cave. I was ready. I pulled on. The beginning of the boulder felt really casual and it felt like I couldn’t let go, but it quickly turned into a huge fight, and the last moves were extremely shaky and desperate, it felt like my fingers were pushed to the very limit. The feeling of topping this one out has to be the highlight of the trip. Psyched to make this little Hueco-goal of mine a reality, and happy for the good times I’ve had out here in Hueco with Tina and all the other good people! One more week in Red Rocks awaits us before we’re headed back home to the cold.
Et innlegg delt av THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter)

Thilo Schröter flasher 8B-bulderen Nagual i Hueco Tanks i Texas. Han har flashet 8B før, i Rocklands i Sør Afrika, men mener den siste skalpen nok er et hakk mer solid for graden. Tidligere på turen til Hueco i vinter har han også repetert en buldert gradert 8B+, og flashet 8A+ med mere.

Også i helga har Martin Måbråten gått en ny bulder gradert 8B+ i Hueco Tanks, Desesparicion. Dette er hans andre førstebestigning på graden etter den knallharde Wolverine på som kanskje er den hardeste norske førstebestigningen av et bulder til nå.

Dermed har begge de norske buldrerne som har klatret de hardeste gradene de siste årene levert i verdensklasse.

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