fredag 20. september 2019

Thilo Schröter leder 8b+ utenfor Tromsø

Thilo har gjort en (sjelden) repetisjon av ruta Piercing, snill grad 8b+ eller 9/9+ på formasjonen Tunga i Ersfjorden. Dette er det nærmeste og kanskje fineste sportsklatrefeltet for Tromsøklatrere på Kvaløya. Ruta ble gått av Eirik Birkelund Olsen for ti år siden, og har vel vært Nord Norges hardeste sportsklatrerute.
Eirik var i flere år en av de beste konkurranseklatrerne i Norge, og blant annet kjent for sin andrebestigning av Norges første 8c-rute; Robert Caspersens rute Fryktelig i tvil på Planet Ø i Hunnedalen i Vest Agder.

Jeg har ikke oversikt over hvor mange andre bestigninger Piercing i Ersfjorden ruta har hatt, men takket være fine lesere har jeg fått vite at Per Arne Barkost gikk ruta da han bodde i Tromsø for seks år siden.

Her er en lenke til video fra et av forsøkene til Per Arne:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muq6Vqk41dc&list=PL08tfjO3UReS6OeUK3bOgkMja3-Qn6oKk&index=9&t=49s



For noen år siden gikk Dave MacLeod en annen start på ruta, og døpte den versjonen Centre Court, men med samme grad. Så vidt jeg vet er det ikke andre ruter på graden i Nord Norge.



Se dette innlegget på Instagram

Spontaneously decided to fly a week to Tromsø with @tinajhafsaas! I’ve been spending most of my time questing for new boulders, but also found the time to try the classic “Piercing” • 8b+ the other day. It was a pretty cold day. Initially we were taking turns trying the route, but as I eventually started giving burns I realised that the beta was to give the next go just as the blood circulation had reached it’s peak, otherwise I’d freeze off. That however allowed for minimal rest, and I was too tired to get it done at the end of the day - video of my best try. Today was even colder, about 5 degrees, windy and rainy. As we were sitting in the car waiting for the rain to stop pouring Tina said that if she was ever given a veto she would use it now, but I insisted that we should at least try to try it, so equipped with rain jackets and boots we started to march. I could hardly feel my fingers warming up going from bolt to bolt. On the ground I started swinging my arms like a maniac to get the blood out into my fingers, and after five minutes of doing so I reached an acceptable temporary state of warmth and saw a small time window of opportunity in terms of my fingers numbing out, and considering the heavy clouds that were racing towards us. I climbed as fast as I could tactically skipping all the rests and a couple of draws and topped out just in time before my fingers numbed out completely. Twenty minutes later the route was wet as well. Definitely one of the more epic sends I’ve had! Psyched!
Et innlegg delt av THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter)

3 kommentarer:

  1. Mener at Per Harald Barkost repeterte Piercing for ca 5 år siden.

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  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muq6Vqk41dc&list=PL08tfjO3UReS6OeUK3bOgkMja3-Qn6oKk&index=9&t=49s

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  3. Takk for kommentaren om Barkost, Kongsberg nest sterkeste sønn (etter Martin Skaar Olslund), har lagt videoen inn i saken.

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