tirsdag 3. desember 2019

For alle som elska 80-tallet: Thilo Schröter klatrer Le Minimum (8c)

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Le Minimum • 8c After the heavy rain on Sunday the forecast promised us sun in Buoux so we decided to go back for another two day round. On our last trip I quickly checked out the beginning of this route as a warmup before giving a flash attempt to Chouka that merges higher up, so I was psyched to get back on it. As we approached the valley we got hit by a wall of fog, and the wall was mostly soaked when we hiked up to it around noon. I initially didn’t think that I would get to climb at all that day given that only La Rose was dry, but just before dark the crimpy crux section on Le Minimum had dried up enough, and I was able to run some good laps on the hardest moves. Today the sun did it’s magic and dried the rest of the wall, and after waiting for cooler temps the entire day I took it down right away! The crux went really smooth, but the upper part was shaky as fuck! Check out the full send on my IGTV. First 8c🍦
Et innlegg delt av THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter)

Thilo Schröter kom rett fra pallplass i NM til å gå noen av verdens første harde sportsklatreruter i Buoux i Provence. Han gikk i dag Le Minimum, som var en av verdens to hardeste ruter i 1986 da Marc Le Menestrel gikk den harde ruta som har vært gradert 8b+ og 8c (tror noen tak har blitt revet av siden den først ble gått.
Dette var selve symbolet på den hardeste klatringen i verden på denne tiden, og Thilo har også valset over de andre superharde og berømte naborutene  Chouca (8a+) og Le Rose et Vampire (8b).

Her er en fin mimreartikkel fra Climbing om disse rutene og Bouox. 

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