tirsdag 18. september 2018

Henning Wang leder Nordic Plumber (8c) i Flatanger

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Back in 2012 I was there as @ethan_pringle bolted the link from The Nordic Flower into @magmidt yet unclimbed project The Thors Hammer. I watched with interest during Ethans redpoint attempts, and I was up at the anchor taking photo's during the first ascent (photo nr. 2). The line was originaly to be called Nordic Thunder, but based on a funny misunderstanding with some of the locals, ended up as The Nordic Plumber. I didn't really try the route then beyond bouldering a bit at the bottom boulder, and when I returned in 2014 I focused more on Nordic Flower, climbing this to the first chains from the second bolt, but never from the ground(!). I then returned in 2015 to try it, but frustrated with what seemed like constantly wet holds in the begining, and sub optimal beta on this sequence, I left the original start and opted to try it from the always dry Dvergtrollet just to the right instead. After several trips that year, I made the link from Dvergtrollet for a slightly easier version (The Troll Hammer), but it still haunted me that I hadn't done it from the original start. Fast forward to easter this year, I once again find myself in Flatanger, this time with my couisin @eivindumberto trying the Nordic Flower/Plumber start. We didn't have any redpoint attempts on it that trip, or that spring for that matter, but came back a few weekends here and there to learn/relearn the beta. After 4 months away from Flatanger, I came back to try it again 2 days 2 weeks ago, then last weekend, and finally this weekend for proper redpoint attempts. Having sussed out all the beta and recovered some endurance working the links, it all came down to waiting for conditions, and today, on my second time through the first boulder (made it through and fell on the rail in the photo's 2 days ago), I finally managed to battle it out all the way to the chains :) Nordic Plumber 8c, sent and done. Photo 1: Me on the final rail, the redpoint crux, by @firnenburgbrothers back in 2015. Photo 2: Ethan Pringle on the final rail during the actual first ascent back in 2012. #madskillzmedia #klatring #escalar #climbing #climbnorway @climbflatanger #climbing_photos_of_instagram #8c
Et innlegg delt av henning_wang (@henning_wang_)

Henning Wang har gått Nordic Plumber (grad 8c) i Hanshelleren på Flatanger. Jeg tror ruta tidligere bare er gått av Magnus Midtbø av norske klatrere. Dermed har Henning gått en håndfull ruter på denne graden, inkludert hans egen variant "The Troll Hammer" i Hanshelleren, og han har også ledet to 8c+ i Spania. 

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