Ny vinterrute i Trollveggen

Foto fra Marcin Tomaszewski, med fotografens tillatelse. Flere bilder ligger på facebook-siden hans

Den nye ruten i Trollveggen til Marcin Tomaszewski og Marek Raganowich står fram som vinteresn beste støting til nå. Ruta går opp i landskapet rundt franskeruta, heter Catharsis, og det forteller vel litt av opplevelsen til de to polske klatrerne på de 19 dagene de brukte opp ruta. De toppet ut for en snau uke siden, og gjennomlevde blant annet stormen Ole. Så det har nok vært en tøff tur i beste polske tradisjon.
Det var blant annet polske klatrere som hadde første vinterbestigning av franskeruta for snart 40 år siden.
- En stor opplevelse, skriver Marcin når jeg spør om det var en bra tur.

 De to gutta har også vært ute en alpin vinternatt før, blant annet med en førstebestigning på Great Trango tower for to år siden.


Her er en pressemelding som ligger på facebook-siden til Marcin.


The new route of Marcin Tomaszewski and Marek Reganowicz on the northern wall of Trollveggen in Norway.

On Fabruary the 9th, two Polish alpinists Marcin Tomaszewski and Marek Reganowicz finished a 19 days long climbing on a 1100 meter tall wall in Trollveggen, Norway.

The marked up route goes in the main pile-up of the precipice and is an individual line, which has been called “Catharsis” by the alpinists. While climbing, the team struggled with bad weather, including Ola hurricane, iced wall, and frequent tidal avalanches successfully retarding reaching new ground.
The alpinists spent nights in a tent hung on the wall, using specialized camping equipment making it possible for them to prepare meals and rest. The difficulties they encountered reach the merit of M7/A4 on the alpine scale, which together with the seriousness and specificity of the Trollveggen wall make a demanding, world class and style alpine Big Wall route.
Tomaszewski and Reganowicz were the first who had decided to climb the wall without previous “railing”, which resulted in beginning the climb with the first camping set at the bottom of the mountain. In the past, the wall has only been conquered in winter by one double team, who repeated an existing route. The “Catharsis” route is one of the two marked up in winter on the Troll wall. The others have been reached in summer. The second route is “Krasnojarsk”, marked up by a six people’s team, which tactically “railed” the whole around 1000 meter wall.
Due to the difficulty of the precipice, winter climbing take place on the existing routes in long-term intervals, by multi member teams.
If you are interested in more information concerning the route, please contact us at: Marcin Tomaszewski; info@marcintomaszewski.pl, +48 501 748 504

With best regards,
Marcin Tomaszewski, Marek Raganowicz.