tirsdag 8. desember 2015

Henning Wang går 8c+ i Spania

Henning Wang har gått ruta La Rubia på klippen Villanueva del Rosaria, gradert 8c+. Det er en 50 meter lang rute sør i Spania.

Hennin har gått flere 8c i Spania før, senest i våres, og også i Flatangerhula i sommer. Henning havner i en eksklusiv klubb av norske 8c+ klatrere. Der er allerede Magnus Midtbø, Sindre Sæther, Hannah Midtbø, Martin Mobråten, Jarle Kalland, Lars Ole Gudevang og John Henry Nilsen. Tilgi meg hvis jeg i all hast (som vanlig) har oversett noen nå - og legg gjerne en kommentar igjen hvis det er tilfelle.
Sindre Sæther gikk den samme 8c+ ruta i starten av måneden, men det satt litt lengre inn for Henning å gå den. Men så er da dette ny pers for Henning, mens Sindre har gått denne graden i flere år.

Her er et instagrambilde og lang tekst fra Henning i dag:

More tired then yesterday here, walk the foot into a shitty kneebar, make the clip, shake two times, two more moves. Reach up, another high dropknee, reach up some more, run the feet up, decent kneebar, might still be screaming, not sure, it dosn't matter, I'm past the crux, yess! Still 25 or so meters of 8a+ to go, why did I choose such a long route? Move up to the better kneebars above, recovery suffering ensues, trying to relax, legs are getting pumped, feeling dehydrated, wish I had an energy drink preplaced in the bolt just off to the side. The tufa boulder I fell off yesterday looms above me, calves are burning, left arm still tired, can't recover completely, getting nervous. I set off. Running up the single tufa, make the clip, move into the boulder, right hand to the pinch, squeeze mode, feet really high, swing up to the big fin, walk the feet up, right hand slips, manage to recover, no way I'm dropping this now!, foot up, kneebar! More suffering, got the dreaded two meter pump, calves are burning, want it to be over, it's not, still 10 meters to go, 10 very long meters. Can't stay, move up to the next draw, new little boulder problem, not as hard as the last, never fallen here on the link, get past, new kneebar. Kneebars barely working, can't stay, wall is getting steeper, 5 meters to go, move into the undercling, wish I had biceps like Sindre, walk in the kneebar, reach up, compression, full span, match feet, powerful move to get a kneebar almost above my head (in the photo). Quick shake, can't stay here either, reaching up, find the pocket, move into the final kneebar, feels horrible, manage to clip the last bolt, try to shake a little. One final boulder problem to go! This is it! Don't drop it! I reach up and take the underclings, no power, don't want to take the knee out, try to reach with the knee in, can't reach, no power to reverse, fuck! Desperation, grabbing nothing spikes, knee out, bumping for the shoulder, still on! Last moves, got power, top-jug in hand, yessss!!! YEESSS!! Clipping the anchors, YEEEEESSSSSS!!!! Photo by Carole Palmier #madskillzmedia #climbing #me #fit #lvngthdrm #yolo #amuerte #climbing_pictures_of_instagram
Et bilde publisert av henning_wang (@henning_wang_)





4 kommentarer:

  1. Unnskyld men tror det gikk litt fort i svingene her. Ruten heter La Rubia, eller?

    Mvh Bernabé Fernandez

    SvarSlett
  2. Hva er 8c+ i norske grader?

    SvarSlett
    Svar
    1. Det norske gradsystemet har begrenset praksis over grad 9, som tilsvarer 8b. Derfra overtar gjerne franske grader. Men en enkel sammenligning som brukes av noen er:
      8b+= 9/9+
      8c= 9+
      8c+= 10-

      Slett
    2. Er ikke denne utviklingen mere naturlig:
      8a = 9-
      8a+ = 9-/9
      8b = 9
      8b+ = 9/9+
      8c = 9+
      8c+ = 9+/10-
      9a = 10-
      9a+ = 10-/10
      9b = 10
      9b+ = 10/10+

      Slett